82道工序做出一把油纸伞
历经82道繁复精工,才能手工做出一把湖南非物质文化遗产代表石鼓油纸伞,再给这六代祖传的老伞取个很国潮的名字“蝶恋花”,放在互联网电商平台上卖,“老掉牙”的手艺全网热卖,吸引了众多年轻人。
It takes 82 complex and meticulous steps to handcraft a Shigu oil-paper umbrella, a representative of the intangible cultural heritage of Hunan. Then, this traditional umbrella passed down through six generations is given a very trendy Chinese-style name, "Butterflies in Love with Flowers", and sold on e-commerce platforms. The "antiquated" craftsmanship has become a hot seller across the whole network, attracting many young people.
谁说年轻人不爱老手艺?26岁的长沙学院毕业生周乐,既守住了祖祖辈辈传承的湘潭石鼓油纸伞老手艺,又在互联网上创业,把老手艺卖成年轻人追捧的爆款,线上平台日均销售量500单,企业年产值达1000万元。
Who says young people have no love for traditional handicrafts?Zhou Le, a 26-year-old graduate of Changsha University, has not only preserved the traditional craftsmanship of the Xiangtan Shigu oil-paper umbrella passed down from generation to generation, but also started a business on the Internet, made them a trendy hit among young consumers. The average daily sales volume on online platforms reaches 500 orders, and the annual revenue value of the enterprise hits 10 million yuan.
自小从父学艺
Learning the Craftsmanship from His Father Since Childhood
在湘潭县石鼓镇安乐村的宇昌工艺伞业厂房里,工人们忙着制伞、画伞。一个清瘦的小伙子穿梭其中,不时躬身指点,操作示范,他就是周乐。
In the workshop of Yuchang Craft Umbrella Industry in Anle Village, Shigu Town, Xiangtan County, workers are busy crafting and painting umbrellas. A slender young man moves around among them, occasionally bending over to give instructions and demonstrate operations. This is Zhou Le.
一把古法制作的油纸伞要经过82道工序,几乎全手工,做一把成伞需要5天以上。周乐出身于湘潭制伞世家,父亲周汉宇是湖南省非物质文化遗产代表性项目——石鼓油纸(布)伞制作技艺的第五代传承人。
A traditionally crafted oil-paper umbrella requires 82 steps, nearly all of which are completed by hand, and it takes at least five days to produce a single finished umbrella. Zhou Le hails from a family in Xiangtan with a long history of umbrella-making. His father, Zhou Hanyu, is the fifth-generation inheritor of the Shigu Oil-paper (Cloth) Umbrella Making Technique, a representative intangible cultural heritage item of Hunan Province.
油纸伞陪伴周乐的整个童年。他从小跟父亲学,从最简单的工序做起,赚取零花钱,也没少挨父亲的骂。有次,周乐将短伞骨和长伞骨的位置装反,周汉宇用了父亲教自己的方式,让周乐重新组装,然后一遍又一遍,不断重复这道工序,直至周乐如同条件反射般地熟记于心。“就是那一次,我感受到了传统手艺每道工序都自有原理,一把油纸伞就是所有材料、工序的浑然天成。”
The oil-paper umbrella accompanied Zhou Le throughout his childhood. He learned the craft from his father since he was a child, starting with the simplest procedures to earn pocket money, though he was often scolded by his father. Once, Zhou Le mistakenly swapped the positions of the short and long umbrella ribs. Zhou Hanyu used the method taught by his father, asking Zhou Le to reassemble them, and then repeating this procedure over and over again until Zhou Le memorized it by heart like a conditioned reflex. "It was at that time that I realized that every procedure of the traditional craftsmanship has its own logic, and an oil-paper umbrella is the perfect combination of all its materials and procedures."
新平台复兴老手艺
Reviving Traditional Craftsmanship on a New Platform
周乐说,他高考填报的第一志愿是电子商务,希望能通过电商平台,将父亲和乡亲们做的油纸伞卖得更远。由于分数不理想,他被调剂到化工材料专业,但他没有放弃,选择辅修电子商务专业。
Zhou Le said that his first choice when filling out the college entrance examination application was e-commerce, as he hoped to use online platforms to sell the oil-paper umbrellas crafted by his father and fellow villagers to a wider market. Due to unsatisfactory scores, he was assigned to the chemical materials major, but he didn't give up and chose to minor in e-commerce.
2018年,才上大二的周乐与伙伴组建了一支9人的电商团队,在网上卖起了油纸伞。
In 2018, while still a sophomore, Zhou Le teamed up with his partners to form a nine-member e-commerce team and began selling oil-paper umbrellas online.
最初,周乐只是在大学闲暇时间,为父亲的油纸伞拓宽网上销路。但他没想到,在运营两三年后,拼多多上的店铺每天都能销售四五百把油纸伞,还常常爆单。而当父亲的线下实体店受到疫情影响时,自己的网店成了油纸伞的主要销售渠道。
At first, Zhou Le just worked on expanding the online sales channels for his father's oil-paper umbrellas during his spare time at college. To his surprise, after two or three years of operation, his store on Pinduoduo could sell four or five hundred oil-paper umbrellas every day, and there were often overwhelming orders. When his father's offline physical store was affected by the pandemic, Zhou Le’s online store became the main sales channel for their oil-paper umbrellas.
依托开福区长沙学院创新创业基地,周乐创立晨梁电商工作室。大学毕业后,他带着同学主动担负起家乡油纸伞研发与市场营销重任。团队中,有人擅长摄影,负责拍摄各种古风视频和图片,作为商品主图;有人擅长做内容运营,在抖音、小红书等年轻人聚集的社交平台带货。作为石鼓油纸伞的第六代传承人,周乐认为,自己成了不同于父亲的新一代“匠人”。“论手艺,我没有父亲精,但我懂得运用新平台新技术,让更多人知道并喜欢石鼓油纸伞。”
Leveraging the Innovation and Entrepreneurship Base of Changsha University in Kaifu District, Zhou Le established the Chenliang E-commerce Studio. After graduating from university, he and his classmates took on the responsibility of developing and marketing the oil-paper umbrellas from his hometown. In the team, some people are good at photography and are responsible for shooting various ancient-style videos and pictures for product listings; some people are good at content operation and promote sales on social platforms like TikTok and Xiaohongshu, where young people gather. As the sixth-generation inheritor of the Shigu Oil-paper Umbrella, Zhou Le regards himself as a new-generation "craftsman", distinct from his father. "In terms of craftsmanship, I'm not as skilled as my father, but I know how to use new platforms and technologies to make the Shigu oil-paper umbrella known and loved by more people."
融合国潮取名文艺范
Blending Chinese Trends and Naming with an Artistic Style
在自家店的石鼓油纸伞上架前,周乐发现其他网上油纸伞店铺都用“1号伞”“2号伞”这种简单的方式命名。而作为传统手艺的代表,油纸伞承载着丰富的文化内涵,应该有更文艺范儿的命名方式。
Before listing the Shigu oil-paper umbrellas in his own store, Zhou Le found that other online oil-paper umbrella stores named their products in a simple way like "Umbrella No. 1" and "Umbrella No. 2". As a representative of traditional craftsmanship, the oil-paper umbrella carries rich cultural connotations and should have a more artistic naming method.
某天正在看古诗词的周乐突然灵机一动:何不用古典诗词给油纸伞命名?于是,他家的油纸伞,成为拼多多平台上最早一批拥有诗意名字的商品,迅速吸引一大波年轻消费者、汉服文化爱好者。
One day, while reading classical poems, Zhou Le suddenly had an idea: Why not name the oil-paper umbrellas with classical poems? As a result, his family's oil-paper umbrellas became one of the earliest products on the Pinduoduo platform to have poetic names. They quickly attracted a large number of young consumers and lovers of Hanfu culture.
作为非遗代表性传承人,周乐深知,传统技艺面临着技艺传承与市场接受度的双重挑战。“我的目标消费者很明确,就是喜欢古风国潮的年轻人。”在大学的汉服社和国学社,他发现,传统文化很受和自己同龄的年轻一代欢迎,自家的油纸伞作为传统技艺的代表,和当下流行的汉服国潮很搭!他将传统技艺与现代设计相结合,为传统油纸伞植入动漫、国风等“新元素”,满足年轻群体中“二次元”和古装文化爱好者的需求,开发出既具有传统韵味又符合现代审美的产品。
As a representative inheritor of intangible cultural heritage, Zhou Le is well aware that traditional techniques face dual challenges: passing down the techniques and gaining market acceptance. "My target consumers are very clear, that is, young people who like ancient styles and Chinese trends." In Hanfu clubs and traditional Chinese culture clubs at university, he found that traditional culture is very popular among young people of his own age. His family's oil-paper umbrellas, as a representative of traditional techniques, matches well with the current popular Hanfu and Chinese trends! He combines traditional techniques with modern designs, implants "new elements" such as animations and Chinese styles into traditional oil-paper umbrellas to meet the needs of the "two-dimensional" and lovers of ancient costume culture among the young group, and develops products that not only have traditional charm but also conform to modern aesthetics.
“油纸伞需要刷桐油才能防水,但桐油气味较大。”周乐说,目前他正和大学的化工专业老师科研攻关,研究用活性炭分解桐油气味,并净化空气。类似这样,他对伞面材料、伞内部穿线方式等进行创新,使非物质文化遗产更大程度地融入市场。
"An oil-paper umbrella needs to be brushed with tung oil to be waterproof, but tung oil has a strong odor." Zhou Le said that currently he is collaborating with chemical engineering professors at the university to conduct research, exploring the use of activated carbon to neutralize the smell of tung oil and purify the air. Similarly, he innovates the materials of the umbrella surface, the threading method inside the umbrella, etc., to better integrate this intangible cultural heritage into the modern market.
2021年底,周乐开始手把手传授新徒弟的油纸伞制作技艺教学任务。同时,他还打造了石鼓油纸伞研学基地,设计了一整套油纸伞制作研学材料包,开展学生研学实践活动,累计接待研学活动超10万人次。很多油纸伞作品,均是湘潭大学、湖南科技大学和湖南工程学院等高校学子设计。通过线上线下相结合,让更多人了解和学习传统技艺。
At the end of 2021, Zhou Le began to teach new apprentices the oil-paper umbrella making technique in person. At the same time, he also established the Shigu Oil-Paper Umbrella Research and Learning Base, designed a complete set of educational kits for oil-paper umbrella making, and carried out research and study practice activities for students. To date, the base has hosted over 100,000 participants in these activities. Many oil-paper umbrella works were designed by students from universities such as Xiangtan University, Hunan University of Science and Technology, and Hunan Institute of Engineering. By combining online and offline methods, Zhou Le has enabled more people to understand and learn about this traditional craft.